BEAUTY WORLDWIDE
Beauty is ambiguous. There is no one definitive form of beauty. What is perceived by one individual as beautiful may be considered visually unpleasant to another. Naturally, such differences in opinions will occur. Overall, the majority of society can determine as to what is attractive and what is not. In conclusion, there are advertisements specifically structured to what the public wants. These advertisements influence people on what products to buy and what clothes to wear. Blindly trusting where the product comes from and how it was made without very much information at all. Aside from that the model advertising it was beautiful, which obviously means, it must work. Many have unintentionally been coaxed into this reoccurring, and brilliant, marketing tactic. Few have dug in to the inner-workings of a multi-billion dollar industry.
BEAUTY INDUSTRY ANALYSES
In the United States alone Americans have spent an obsessive amount of time and money in perfecting the concept of beauty. In 2005, the cosmetics industry grossed a 44.6 billion revenue. By 2011, the growing industry had accumulated a monstrous 53.7 billion. Jumping almost 10 billion dollars in only 6 years. These numbers aren’t as shocking in comparison to the global revenue of the cosmetics/beauty industry. In 2007, the industry accrued globally 206.72 billion dollars (in U.S. currency). In 2012, up to 244.8 billion dollars. The beauty industry is labelled “recession proof” (HR world) and has a projected worldwide revenue of 265 billion dollars by the year 2017. What in specific is the most sought after products in the industry? Facial and skin care are the leading products in the industry making up 27% of the overall revenue; personal care 23%; hair care 20%; make up 20%; and fragrance at 10%. Since skin care takes first place as the highest grossing product, let’s touch lightly on cosmetic surgery. In 2013, 15.1 billion cosmetic procedures were performed in the United States. The top five cosmetic surgical procedures: breast augmentation, nose reshaping, eyelid surgery (yes that is apparently a thing), liposuction, and face-lift. Ninety-one percent of cosmetic procedures that took place in 2013 were performed on females (Surgeons).
MARKETING MANIPULATIONS
It is no secret that the media plays off the consumers insecurities. When profiting billions is the name of the game, some of the dirtiest players come out of the woodwork. This has been an occurrence as far back as the 1950’s. For example, Clairol’s “Does she or doesn’t she?” campaign. Which triggered an explosion in sales. The percentage of women dying their hair skyrocketed from 7% in the 1950’s to 40% in the 1970’s. The televised and magazine ads for the product proclaimed things such as “If I only have one life, let me live it as a blonde.” Pushing the coveted yellow shade as a way to transform your life. How about body hair? Today women are depicted without virtually any body hair aside from what is found on the top of their heads. According to researcher Christine Hope (Scherker) fashion and advertising is directly to blame. From the 16th to 19th century European and American women kept body hair au natural. In 1915 came an “assault on the underarm" a eruption of advertisements warning women that unsightly, unfeminine under-hair arm must be shaved to look "as smooth as the face." Next women were encouraged to shave their legs and bikini lines to look more attractive in sheer stockings and swimwear. Now in 2014, a whopping 77% of women shave or wax almost all body hair. Last but not least, your nails are horrid. In 1911, Northam Warren produced the first nail polish. With his new find also came an advertising campaign. “With every move your hand—your nails are conspicuous,” (Scherker) the advertisement proclaimed. Having well-manicured nails meant you were sophisticated and surpassed the bottom feeders and their manual labor. The nail industry boomed from $150,000 in 1916 to $2 million by 1920. Last year the industry grew to an all-time high, accruing $7.47 billion.
COSMETIC BREAK-DOWN
Under current law in the United States, the FDA does not review cosmetics before they are marketed to consumers. Upon request by the consumer only, the FDA can investigate a potentially hazardous product. Unless a product specifically makes a medical claim, such as anti-dandruff shampoo, is it classified as a “drug” and requires the FDA’s stamp of approval. The United States FDA does not require animal testing in order for a product to be declared safe. China, however, conducts mandatory animal tests on all cosmetic products imported into the country. Brazil also requires animal testing on some, but not all, cosmetics. Even though in the U.S. it is not mandatory to conduct animal testing, some companies choose to. When a company chooses to develop or use untested ingredients in their cosmetics, conducting animal tests better evaluates the safety of these products. Some commonly performed tests would be (Society):
• Skin and eye irritation tests. Where chemicals are rubbed onto the shaved skin or dripped into the eyes of restrained rabbits without any pain relief.
• Repeated force-feeding studies lasting weeks or months to look for signs of general illness or specific health hazards such as cancer or birth defects.
• Widely condemned "lethal dose" tests, in which animals are forced to swallow large amounts of a test chemical to determine the dose that causes death.
There is a surprising amount of commonly used cosmetic/beauty product brands that still test on animals. Regardless of the existing and growing alternatives. Brands involving hair in skin care that test on animals in the United States: TRESemmé, Nexxus, Redkin, Nair, Aveeno, Clean & Clear, and many others. Brands involving cosmetics/make up: L’Oreal, Urban Decay, Ralph Lauren (cosmetics and fragrances), Lancome, and the list goes on.
Do not be deceived by products that claim to have a fragrance, chances are if you buy apple scented shampoo there was no apple involved. Just a series of harsh chemicals made up to simulate the smell of an apple. The term “fragrance” was created to protect a company’s secret formula. According to EWG (Environmental Working Group) and their skin-deep database, “fragrance mixes have been associated with allergies, dermatitis, respiratory distress and potential effects on the reproductive system. It can be found in many products such as perfume, cologne, conditioner, shampoo, body wash and moisturizers,” (Cunningham).
Several alternatives to products containing harsh chemicals and those that test on animals are available. Physicians Formula, Bare Minerals, Sephora Natural & Organic Make-up, among many others. In order for a product to be classified as “100% organic” and use the USDA (NOP: National Organic Program) seal, it must consist of 100% organic ingredients. In Europe and the United States, there are no government regulations specifically for organic cosmetics. Contracted certifying agents supervise health and beauty products and award them “organic seals,” as shown on brands such as Physicians Formula.