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Florence: The Novel
Wow, I completely forgot to mention my weekend trip to Florence, Italy last week. And ironically enough, I will never forget this trip as it has officially become the most ridiculous weekend of my life, hands down, feet down, “man down.”
Chapter 1
To kick off this adventure, Chris, Caitlin, and myself left for the train station six hours before our scheduled train departure at 10:45 pm. You may be asking yourself, “why Brendan?” Well, as I have previously mentioned (and will inevitably complain about in the future), Italian transportation is an incredibly large joke. I thought Delta was bad, but boy, was I proven wrong. There is this thing here in Europe where workers just go in strike whenever they feel like it: “I think I want a longer lunch break, STRIKE!” “Man that company party last night got weird, STRIKE!” “When in Rome…STRIKE!” Ok, there is a real reason, but it’s more fun to pretend like Europeans are lazier than Americans. Anyways, there was a planned strike for our departure date. After getting on the wrong bus and taking two hours to make a 30 minute walk to the station, we made it to Termini five minutes before the last train left for the night. Unfortunately, we had to leave our fellow travelers in Rome to catch the next train in the morning as they hadn’t even left Trastevere yet. Lucky them…
Chapter 2
We arrived in Florence determined to blindly find our hostel and immediately seek out food. After a while of wandering (and an unplanned run-in with Ilana Wolstein) we decided to take the second option of directions given to us by a bunch of literal stoop kids. Side note: the first option was to follow a dark alley to a dead end. We found the hostel and well, um, huh…let me explain it this way. You know in horror movies when the ditsy blonde walks into the dark cellar and everyone is yelling at the screen about how dumb she is and how she completely deserved that chainsaw to the abdomen? Yeah, well, we were that proverbial blonde. We walked in the doors, up seven flights of stairs in the pitch black, and were greeted by two men whom we immediately coined “crackhead” and “crazy eyes.”
Chapter 3
At this point, we unanimously decided that the only possible way to stay at Hostel the night was to go out and drink enough to lose all inhibitions, and subsequently, survival instincts. In this endeavor, great success. In life decisions, huge fail. But hey, it was only 10 euros per night and I’m poor. So, we went out to Red Garter with Chris’ friend from Clemson and slept like little prisoner babies that night. The next morning we woke up and left instantly to meet up with our other friends who had taken the 6:45 am train in. We succumbed to the lure of McDonalds breakfast and postponed all lures of a shower and change of clothes at the hostel. But rolling ten people
nothing to you, then well, open a book. After, we went to see the Michelangelo’s David. This brings up a quick point that I would like to make. The David is not special nor is it cool. In fact The David Letterman > The David. The David Fullmer > The David. And dare I say? The David Hasselhoff > The David. Yeah, that’s how I feel about this guy whose hands and head are disproportionate to his body and cost 15 euro
deep, we decided that no crackhead or crazy eyed Italian could overcome us (again, probably not the best logic). Anyways, we rallied and did a lot of the tourist attractions including the Duomo and Duomo Capula. While Rome is a
far superior city to Florence, the view from the Duomo rivals that of the Vatican. Florence is honestly breathtaking from the top of the Duomo; and not because of its altitude, but the uniformity and structure of the city’s buildings and streets. Pictures may speak 1,000 words, but seeing this in person requires none. Moving on, we visited the Uffizi Museum, which is very famous for its arrayed art collection. The gallery houses everything from Leonardo Da Vinci’s The Annunciation to Sandro Botticelli’s The Birth of Venus to Raphael’s Madonna of
the Goldfinch. If these mean
to go see. Spend your money on something important to the world, like beer or pizza. The girls proceeded to go leather shopping (cause I guess that’s famous in Florence) while Chris, Alex, and myself scoured the local market for a place to spend our money on something important to the world. After a nice midday break, we made fools of ourselves back at the leather store by creating puppets out of mink scarves. And so, the birth of Master Scarf and Monsieur Lerow came to be.
Ok, just one more… The Any Homeless Man Named David > The David.
Chapter 4
Being poor college students, we barely eat and spend our money on other…vices. But in Florence, we got our money’s worth spending 15 euro on a 4 course meal with all you can drink wine and a bar crawl after…best of both worlds. Those worlds being keeping yourself alive, the former, and slowly killing yourself, the latter. I left my Rome friends for a while to meet up with Ryan Cristal and Natasha Volny, my buds from Vandy, and also ran into a bunch of other Commodores. It’s definitely nice to see some familiar faces for a change, because I usually have to rely on coincidence to see Paige (called out). We ended up at a club called Space and that’s where this chapter needs to end.
Chapter 5
At our hostel, we needed to be up and out by 9:30 every morning for cleaning until 4 pm. While we initially found this to be a relief from the griminess of the actual people there, we learned the truth shortly after leaving Florence. Instead of sanitizing and cleaning, the Firenze police were more concerned about the drugs that crackhead and crazy eyes were supposedly cooking in the kitchen. So we needed to be out the next morning at 9:30 am after getting back at 5 am in the morning. Rough start doesn’t begin to describe this epic rally. Fortunately, we couldn’t have asked for a better day to do all the outdoor sight seeing. First, we trudged along to the Ponte Vecchio where something happened once, but I’m not sure why it’s famous.
After came the Pitti Palace and Boboli Gardens. These were short-lived because around this time, our hangovers began to kick in. Naturally, we bought some boxed wine, crackers, cheese, meat, and jam and made the hike to the Piazza Michelangelo where we had a “picnic” that overlooked all of Florence.
I’m not sure how accepted it is to drink at a monastery, but the monk seemed fine with it when he drank our wine. Wouldn’t that have been a cool story if it were true? Damn, oh well. Moving on, we spent our last night in Florence at a club called Fullup where I ran into more Commodores (some who will never remember that) and we had a…fun night. Alter egos Master Scarf and Monsieur Lerow tried to take Bambi to Albania. ‘Nuff said.
Epilogue
Saying goodbye to crackhead and crazy eyes was one of the hardest things I have ever done. I think it took me under three second to grab my belongings and run. But, I will never forget them and all the free sangria parties they tried so hard to invite us to. Live Long and Prosper Florence. We had an incredible time.
Until next time fans,
Keep on keeping on.
For more photos, check out my facebook album
Ciao my American friends and loyal cohorts! First and foremost, YES, I am still alive despite strong past evidence to believe otherwise. Second, I apologize for my absence and lack of updates-I haven't posted anything to this blog for a while, but it's not because I'm busy (most definitely the opposite). Rather, I have been feeling particularly uncreative and unmotivated these days (unless you're a future employer reading this, in which case, I am SUPER busy with work and exceptionally motivated). Now, this absence could be the side effects of staying out too late and/or not getting enough sleep, but surprisingly no. It’s the stinkin’ weather. In my family, we have a saying that never fails to disappoint: “avoid liquor.” Oh, sorry wrong one, I meant to say “when the Fung’s go on vacation, we bring the weather with us.” And as you can imagine, Cleveland has graced Rome with its wonderful presence. Yes, it has perpetually snowed here all week for the first time in 27 years and I am the lucky recipient of this miracle (insert straight-faced emoticon)! Before you say, “but Brendan, you love snow,” let me remind you, this isn’t Midwest snow where we grab our skis and head to Holiday Valley. No, this is equivalent to Nashville snow-one where everything is shut down and bad driving becomes worse driving. Add the -9.5°C temperature (that’s 15°F) as the icing on the cake, and this past week has been anything but a “roman vacation.” However, despite a cancelled weekend trip to Tivoli (public transportation in Italy is…unreliable to say the least), this countrywide standstill has given me the opportunity to get to know Trastevere far better. And for that, I am grateful. We spent the whole weekend within the confines of our small historic town (sound familiar, Chagrin?), uninterested in the notion of travelling throughout the ice-covered and taxi-less city. A solid mixture of the Gladiator drinking game, an outstandingly lazy Saturday, and an enjoyable loss for the Patriots left us with an altogether great weekend. Next up…Krakow, Poland. I can already hear mom and dad in my head, “avoid liquor.”
"It's
just
life,"
they
say.
Italian Cooking 101
Unlike my pa, cooking has never been my forte. I have tried with little avail to master the art of preparing delicious food and have come up with little more than spinach lasagna or linguine with clam sauce. But now, I have a new trick up my sleeve and that trick is an Italian cooking class. Last wednesday, 22 students from John Cabot University cooked an IMMENSE amount of food with the help of Chef Andrea Consoli and his wife. Needless to say, the four course meal was impeccable and I have never eaten so much food in my life. Below are some recipes and photos of the class. Enjoy.
Course 1: bruschetta al pomodoro, basilico, e mozzarella di bufala
Instructions:
Preheat the oven to 400°F (or 200°C) and toast the bread until crisp and golden brown for about 5 minutes. Rub each slice of bread with half a clove of garlic, then drizzle with one table spoon of extra virgin olive oil (EVOO) and season with salt. You can toast the bread in the toaster, but using the oven dries it out more, adding an authentic touch! Be sure to use only a good cold-pressed EVOO as the dish depends on the quality of the oil.
For your tomato and basil topping you have to chop the Roma tomatoes in small cubes, dice the Buffalo mozzarella in small cubes, sprinkle with salt and black pepper, and garnish with fresh basil leaves. Drizzle with few table spoons of EVOO and serve.
Course 2: Fresh Homemade Tagliolini all'Amatriciani
This is a pasta dish with homemade pasta and a thick red bacon sauce...molto bene!
Pasta Ingredients (serves 4 people):
- 4 cups all purpose flour 00 SIFTED
- 4 eggs
Sauce Ingredients (serves 4 people):
-8 oz guanciale (or pancetta) diced
-3 lb can tomatoes, peeled and chopped (the best type is called San Marzano)
-1 medium onion, finely chopped
-1 carrot
-1 stalk celery
-1 small red chilly pepper, seeded and chopped (I used chili flakes instead of the fresh one, as it's not so invasive)
-Salt and freshly ground pepper
-1 cup pecorino cheese
-2 bay leaves
Sauce Instructions:
Sauté the chopped guanciale in a large frying pan over medium heat until lightly browned, about 5 minutes. In the meantime, in a large frying pan over low heat, stir in the "soffritto" made from blended carrots, celery and onion with E.V. olive oil and cook until it starts to brown. Turn on the heat over medium-high and if you want you can even stir in some dry white wine and cook it until it'll evaporate (please never use any sweet wine, it's disgusting!). Then you can add your chopped tomatoes and cook it for 15/30 minutes (depending on how much sauce you're cooking). Add the guanciale and bay leaves and chili pepper. Mix well and season with salt and pepper.
Pasta Instructions:
For the pasta dough all you have to is mix 4 cups all purpose flour with 4 eggs. Then roll out the dough powerfully to a thin, almost transparent sheet (don’t forget to use flour on the marble surface). Now it's time to cut the pasta into the tagliolini shapes, long and thin, as thin as you possibly can. Let the pasta sit before cooking, then put a large pot of boiling water over high heat. When the water is boiling, toss in a tablespoon of salt with the tagliolini pasta. Stir to keep the pasta from sticking. Cook for 1 or 2 minutes, until a piece of pasta tastes cooked.
When the pasta is cooked, drain it and add it to the frying pan with the amatriciana sauce and add freshly grated pecorino cheese, serve hot.
Course 3: straccetti di manzo con funghi e rughetta
Ingredients (serves 4 people):
- 1/2 lb beef carpaccio
- 1 clove garlic
- 3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
- Freshly chopped parsley
- Salt
- 1 cup dry white wine (Frascati wine)
- 8.8 oz Champignon mushrooms (bottom mushrooms)
- 8.8 oz Pletus mushrooms (elephant ear mushrooms)
- 8.8 oz freshly grated Parmesan cheese
Instructions:
Saute in a frying pan chopped garlic without peeling the skin (as it contains all the nutrients and it's good for the anti-oxidant nutrients) and the sliced mushrooms, cover with a lid and wait until all the water will be released for about 8-10 minutes (timing will depend on the type of mushrooms you are using). Then add the white wine and wait until it will evaporate.
In the same pan, turn up the heat up and add olive oil. Season the meat with salt and saute for few minutes in a seperate pan. The outside should be nicely browned, but it should still be tender and soft overall. Adjust a bed of fresh bitter arugola salad at the bottom of your serving dish and spoon the mushrooms sauce over the beef. Add chopped parsley in the same pan to let it season with the rest of the ingredients.
In the end adjust the meat and mushrooms over and add freshly grated Parmesan cheese to coat the dish. Serve hot, and it will be delicious.
Course 4 (side dish): Broccoli Romaneschi
This is a spicy sidedish of cauliflower, which Italians refer to as "broccoli."
Ingredients (serves 4 people):
- 1 clove garlic (don't forget to keep the skin on it while you're sauteing with extra virgin olive oil)
- 2 heads of roman broccoli (cauliflower)
- Salt
- Chili flakes
Instructions:
First clean and wash the broccoli. Then remove the bottom of the plant and chop the tops into halves. Let the broccoli cook in salted boiling water for a few minutes, until each piece becomes tender and soft. Then in a large frying pan, over medium-high heat, let the garlic brown with extra virgin olive oil. Once the garlic is brown, toss in your boiled broccoli, leave to simmer with garlic until everything is nicely sauteed. Season your dish with salt and chili flakes. Serve warm.
Course 5 (Dessert): Canestrelli alla Nutella
In other words, Nutella cookies. Italians eat Nutella like Americans eat McDonalds: sometimes for every meal and with little regard for their health.
To make the dough you have to mix 5 cups of all purpose flour, 2 sticks of unsalted butter, 2.5 cups of granulated sugar, 2 eggs, and a pinch of salt. Mix everything powerfully on a slightly floured marble surface, and leave in the fridge for at least 2 hours.
After at least two hours, roll out your dough and cut with small stencils or any shape you would like. With half of these dough shapes, cut a smaller hole into the middle. Place on a wax sheet lined baking pan. Heat the oven to 350°F and bake for 10-15 minutes or until the pastry is golden. Sprinkle pieces with small hole ("tops") in powdered sugar. On the fuller cookies ("bottoms"), spread Nutella in a thin layer. Place the tops on the bottoms, using the Nutella like glue and fill in the hole generously with Nutella.
Ingredients:
-5 cups all purpose flour
-2 sticks unsalted butter
-2.5 cups granulated sugar
-2 eggs
-Salt
-Powdered sugar
-NUTELLA
A tavola non si invecchia
FORZA ROMA!
Football. No, not like "I'm a Chagrin football player, worship me" football. But, REAL football. (Sorry, entire town of Chagrin). I'm talking soccer. The epi-center of most people's lives here in Roma and we got to experience it first hand, front row, and full force. Face paint, beer, and jerseys. Check, check, and check. With the wind at our back and sun on our faces, we took la stadio by force and led a cheering Roma crowd to a 5-1 victory. FORZA ROMA!
AS Roma: 5
AC Cesena: 1
Hanging out with my good friend, XL bottle of vino. (And Paige too).
Like all good students do, Paige skipped her very first day of classes and I didn't schedule any for Mondays. So, we took full advantage of this responsible decision-sought out a high quality 3 liter (and 3 euro) bottle of wine, purchased some paninis, and headed to Villa Borghese for a good ole' fashioned picnic. And by good ole' fashioned, I mean study abroad college version.
We took this picture for Wendy, but who knows if she will see it. Puppies > Paige.
Spot on, Paige.
After I put this together, I realized it looks like a shrine to Paige. So, for good measure, I am going to put up this picture of Buster Bluth and a sheep.
January 27-29
February 3-5
February 10-12
February 17-19
February 24-26
March 16-18
March 18-19
March 19-21
March 21-25
March 31-April 1
April 13-15
April 20-22
May 5-12
Florence, Italy
Venice, Italy
Paris, France
Gimmelwald, Switzerland
Prague, Czech Republic
Sensation White, Belgium
Mallorca, Spain
Ibiza, Spain
Barcelona, Spain
Pompeii and Amalfi Coast, Italy
Dublin, Ireland
Munich, Germany
Copenhagen, Denmark
Tough life
how i will spend the next four months
Rome At A Glance
It has only been five days here in Rome, and already I feel like this city is home. While it seems like I have seen nearly everything, in reality, there is so much more to experience. In an attempt to navigate Rome, I have walked to so many places including Vatican City, the Colosseum, Trevi Fountain, etc. In fact, walking has become such a usual occurence that 30-40 minute distances are both expected and enjoyed.
Trastevere, where I live.
Chagrin Falls takes on Rome. Nikki Lucci and Lindsey Watson capped off their European tour here.
Statua di Giuseppe Garibaldi
There are water spouts around every corner in Rome. Don't worry, they are all drinkable.
Shots of "Italy"- I don't recommend.
Harry Potter shots- I do recommend.
(Everclear, whiskey, and cinammon)
This plate of spaghetti alla carbonara was larger than my head. I kid you not.
Italian pizza. Need I say more?
Although I couldn't even put a dent in my spaghetti alla carbonara, Lindsey and Nikki polished their plates off. I was ashamed.
Tony's Ristorante.
Stato della Citta del Vaticano
:Vatican City
Vatican at night.
My "for mom" picture.
Hanging with some peeps halfway up Saint Peter's Basilica: Caitlin, Everett, Amanda, myself, and Alyssa.
View from the Vatican Cupola aka top. Insane.
The attention to detail in the Vatican is outstanding.
This is my bathtub. Ok not really, but it was someone's at somepoint. Badassery right here.
These freaky mosaics of baby's faces line the inner dome of Saint Peter's Basilica.
The Pieta by Michelango. Literally means "pity."
I was able to snap this photo of the Sistine Chapel before I was reprimanded. It is beyond anything you have ever seen, ever. Props Michelangelo, props.
These baby angel, or "cherub," statues are the height of an average human adult.
Ancient Rome
I think they call this the Colosseum or something.
Piazza Novano. Fountains by Bernini
Vittorio Emmanuelle. This is the tomb of Victor Emanuel, the first king of United Italy. Tourists call it the "wedding cake" and Romans call it the "typewriter."
Eating dinner in front of the Pantheon.
My other "for mom" picture.
Largo Argentina, the Ancient Roman senate where Caesar was stabbed and killed. Et tu Brute?
New Roman Forum right above the old Roman Forum ruins
Trevi Fountain at night.
The statue, designed and built by Bernini in 1762, depicts Oceanus controlling the flow of water and celebrates the discovery of a natural water source in Rome. In other words, the Trevi Fountain does not pump water by machine, but a natural flow by aquaducts.
THE ETERNAL CITY
The city of Rome, or Roma, has been thriving for nearly 2,500 years. With every step you take and glance you catch, anyone can tell that the history of Rome lives within the people and places that make Italy's capital magnificent. A meager two days of living in the Eternal City and already, I have compeletely justified my decision to study abroad here. I could not have imagined it any better than it already is. With that being said, I still have four months of vagabonding, legal drinking, and site-seeing to look forward to. I know that my posts will be eagerly awaited, but remember, I have "studying" to do.
"All roads lead to Rome"
PS. This isn't my photo, but there will be many to come.
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